/climbing · 2024

Yosemite

big walls · trad · alpine · 3d map

I've climbed many big walls, valley classics, and alpine adventures around Yosemite. I did a lot of solo aid climbing during the COVID seasons, and I have some bigger objectives once I get my crack climbing skills back up.

3d map
loading terrain…
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el capitan
middle cathedral
higher cathedral
manure pile buttress
five open books
sunnyside bench
church bowl
royal arches
washington column
glacier point apron
half dome
Terrain from USGS 3DEP elevation data. Route lines are approximate, placed by hand against the El Capitan gigapixel photo and published topos. Good enough to show a friend which way a route goes; don't navigate by them.

Aid climbing and big walls#

A majority of my time in the valley around 2020 to 2024 was spent climbing aid routes and big walls. This was a very COVID-friendly activity, because there would be virtually zero traffic in Yosemite (both on the roads and on the climbing routes).

A portaledge hanging off a big wall route, with haul bags below
A portaledge hanging off a big wall route, with haul bags below
Big wall climbing has an important logistical component on top of the climbing itself. Every expedition requires food, a gallon of water per day, a ledge to sleep on, and the rope systems to haul it up.
A pitch on the Washington Column, with a portaledge below
A ledge on the Washington Column, with a portaledge below
Big wall climbing has an important logistical component on top of the climbing itself. Every expedition requires food, a gallon of water per day, a ledge to sleep on, and the rope systems to haul it up.

Getting water#

If there is a single misstep that I have made many times that I urge you to avoid, it is not getting enough water. I have been dehydrated more times than I care to share the stories of here.

Using a water filter to refill from the river
When I'm around the valley, I always carry a water filtration device. Up in the High Sierras, there are places where fresh water bubbles up straight from underground.

Washington Column#

If you want to get a taste of big wall climbing, Washington Column is a great place to start. There is around 200 feet of 5.9 climbing, but otherwise it is very smooth sailing.

A pitch on the Washington Column, with a portaledge below
A ledge on the Washington Column summit, with a portaledge below
Big wall climbing has an important logistical component on top of the climbing itself. Every expedition requires food, a gallon of water per day, a ledge to sleep on, and the rope systems to haul it up.

Lost Arrow Spire#

You can hike up to the rim on the Upper Yosemite Valley trail, then rappel into the notch and climb up to the tip of the spire. It's actually possible to do this solo - you must carry 120 meters of rope, tie off on the tree, then rappel into the notch. You'll have to pass the knot on your way down, then use the 30 meter "tail" as your solo aid rope to get up the first pitch. After you clean the first pitch and the ground anchor, you'll have almost exactly 61 meters of rope to reach the summit of the spire.

I've gone up this one aid solo, and I also carried a warm beer in my pocket on another trip because my buddy Dan wanted to shotgun a Modelo on the summit of the spire for his birthday. Such a great day!

The ascent of Lost Arrow Spire, with a portaledge below

Where is the King Swing on that map above?#

On the 3D map of Yosemite Valley, there are approximate waypoints dropped over the exact terrain, so they show roughly where a route goes rather than the exact pitch by pitch. The Nose really does start at the toe of the buttress and top out at the summit rim, but you won't see the iconic King Swing dip on this map. Trust me, I tried!

cd /climbing